We arrive on time in the early morning in Shanghai. The city reminds me of Chicago in many ways, not least because of its spectacular architecture and public plaza along the waterfront. There are a tremendous number of cranes working on high-rise construction of all types, especially along the historic Bund waterfront which is largely blocked off from view for our visit because of Expo renovations up through and past Nanjing Road. We cannot imagine how they will make the deadline in March but are sure they will.

We’ve got tours coming up on following days, so many of us get out for a walk in the city as soon as we dock, despite the threatening skies and the extreme cold. We venture to the Shanghai Museum of Art, the People’s Square, Nanjing Road, the Old City and the Yunan Gardens but we can’t take refuge from the cold even in restaurants because they are so crowded. It is considerably below freezing and the wind is as sharp as a knife. We don’t have time to learn the bus system and the subway isn’t quite worth it for where we need to go, so we wind up walking many miles in the city, at least partly to stay warm. The only thing we don’t get to that I’ve always wanted to see is the French Concession, with its many old homes and tree-lined boulevards. I remember reading French novels when I was young, many of which seemed to be set in exotic locations such as the Concession in China. I won’t get to it, though, since I’m scheduled to go to Beijing. Warner and Nancy promise me pictures if they go. By the time night falls, we nearly run to get back to the ship and a bit of warmth.

Cabs are cheap and we talk about going back out for dinner and drinks but it is just bitter outside and so we elect to sit out the evening on the top deck inside. The ship has a million dollar, front row seat of the architectural marvels and skyscrapers that make up the impressive skyline of Shanghai. At night, with fireworks adding even more illumination to the lit-up buildings, it is all truly spectacular. Different parts of the city compete to upstage each other with extravagant displays, so much so that the streets are littered with shell papers every day.